Kletterschuh--Part 1, Reel 35

Date1936 – 1937

Can DescriptionsKletterschuh - Climbing in the Dolomites

Viewing NotesTitle card: ‘Kletterschuh Climbing in the Dolomites’. Intertitle: ‘As demonstrated by: Giuseppe Dimai, Angelo Dimai, Celsa Degasper, Giovanni Demetz’. Intertitle: ‘SELECTED FOR SCREENING AT DUNCAN MacD. LITTLE’S 10TH ANNUAL MOVIE PARTY AND INTERNATIONAL AMATEUR FILM SHOW BARBIZON-PLAZA THEATRE NEW YORK CITY FRIDAY APRIL 14, 1939’. Rock formations. (Cinque Torri) The Tofane peaks, Tofana di Mezzo, Tofana di Dentro, and Tofana di Rozes. Valley floor and mountains. Intertitle: ‘Angelo Dimai, Guida alpina Cortina d’Ampezzo. Close up of Angelo. Intertitle: ‘Giuseppe Dimai Guida alpina Maestro di sci Cortina.’ Close up of Giuseppe, wearing goggles. Intertitle: ‘From Tre Croci Pass- Piz Popena, south face, ‘Via Christine’. Giuseppe Dimai on a motorcycle. Panning up to mountain peaks. Intertitle: ‘Sea of clouds over Auronzo from the Rifugio Principe Umberto’. (Rifugio Principe Umberto is now the Rifugio Auronzo) Mountain peaks surrounded in clouds. Intertitle: ‘and now – LET’S GO CLIMBING!’ Intertitle: ‘For equipment you will need:’ Shot of climbing gear, pack, shoes, rope, canteen and a camera. Giuseppe Dimai smoking. Giuseppe tying a knot in a rope and looping it around himself. He hangs a set of spikes (piton) around his neck. Giuseppe climbing. The mountain top. Giuseppe climbing. He hammers a piton into crack and attaches a carabiner and rope. Close up of his feet as he climbs. Various shots of Giuseppe climbing. Angelo climbing, as Giuseppe helps pull him up. Both men climbing. Intertitle: ‘“THE OVERHANG” A difficult bit requiring a knowledge of piton technique and the “double-rope” method of ascent.’ Giuseppe sets a piton before leaning out around the overhang. He sets and moves several other pitons as he climbs. Angelo holding the rope at the foot of the cliff. Giuseppe climbs over the overhang, then helps pull Angelo up. Driving in a piton. Angelo lowing himself down. Giuseppe lowering himself down. Giuseppe gathering rope. Trees and mountains in the distance. The two men lowering themselves down a cliff face. Giuseppe climbing. Intertitle: ‘THE END of PART 1’. [End of Reel]

Donor-supplied NotesKLETTERSCHUH CLIMBING in the DOLOMITES Scene I – Swiss Alps – The Matterhorn from the Riffelalp showing the East Face left (never climbed) The Hornli Ridge (regular route) and the famous North Face with Zmutt Ridge to the right. Scene II – Ober Gabelhorn – Zinal Rothorn in row camera swinging right. 2nd Panorama: - Vally of Zmutt – Dent Blanche, Ober-Gabelhorn; Zinal Rothorn; Weisshorn; and east to Valley of the Visp and the Bietschhorn in the distance (Loetchental). Scene II – Panorama from the East (right to left) : The same peaks at sunset End of Swiss Section – compare with Dolomites Scene I – Tore Grande of the Cinque Torre Group – near Cortina D’Ampezzo – in Northern Italy. Camera swing to the right and shows the great South Face of Tofana where the Austrians held back the Italians during the Great War. There are trenches still to be seen on the summit. There are three routes up this face. The camera still swinging to the right shows Cortina D’Ampezzo nestled in the valley below, and behind the town the winding road leading over the Pass of the Three Crosses. Further to the right are the gray peaks of – Sorapis and Antelao. Scene II – Angelo Dimai the elder of the two brothers – both famous Scene II – Boulder Practice Scene III – The pointed peak – (at left) Punta Fiammes is a 5th degree 5-6 hr. climb – (6th degree is illegitimate climbing using pitons) The camera swings right showing Monte Cristallo highest in group. Scene IV – Giuseppe Dimai with whom Miss Reid made first ascent on Piz Popena – south Face – Via Christine now called. Scene V – Sea of Clouds Scene VI – Equipment showing: 120 feet of rope – piton hammers – pitons Equipment cont. – Karabiner; Kletterschuh with rope or felt soles; canteen, sugar and prunes and apricots; hobbed nails boots used to foot of ascent; baggy trousers of preferably slippery material; rucksack to hold all – and Leica camera. Scene VII – climbing Torre Lusy and demonstrating use of pitons for INSURANCE only. – The distance a climber may fall is lessened by occasional pitons in the most dangerous places. The CLIMBER DOES NOT HOLD ONTO THE PITONS OR KARABINER. Scene VIII – Roping off by the Dulfer method Thru legs across chest – diagonally and back over shoulder Where it is held with one hand – the other holds rope out in front of crotch about a foot away. Scene IX – Handholds and Foot placing – and piton work. Scene X – Chimney Work in Torre Romana Chimney. This chimney was 15 feet deep and the sun only came into it for 20 minutes every day.